The coin thrown into the basin of the Trevi Fountain. The roads traveled by Vespa. The sunsets, with or without a kiss, observed in front of the vestiges of ancient Rome. Is one spritzer to symbolize the daily appointment – for many, inevitable – of the aperitif. There is also the well-known long drink, now, among the customs and stereotypes of our country, as demonstrated by the film The Italian recipe, shot in Rome by Zuxin Hou, which pays homage to Roman Holidays, in a romantic journey among our own clichés. Cocktail included, in fact. Without forgetting that Trussardi has given a heart of Spritz to the perfume Alba sui Navigli, conceived by the nose Sylvie Fischer to celebrate a “mythical place in Milan”, explains the perfumer, “where Spritz flows freely and people are joyful”. Yet the tradition could be doomed to be lost, at least in its historical version. Pure. The crisis of the gasin fact, the world of drinks is also of interest. L’carbon dioxide for food use, due to transport difficulties and the increase in energy costs, it is more difficult to find.
The alarm, launched last July by Assobibe, an association of Confindustria that represents producers of soft drinks in Italy, makes its effects felt in the cocktail market, forcing us to rethink them, with more imagination and fewer ingredients. First victims, just the classic cocktails.
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Born between the twenties and thirties of the twentieth century, between Venice and Padua, probably resuming the habit of the troops of the Austrian Empire in the Lombard-Veneto Kingdom of elongating wine with water, the Spritz, in the new millennium, has become one of the country’s iconic cocktails. The recipe of the International bartenders association includes prosecco, Aperol and a splash of soda or seltz, but this last step now seems to be at risk. «To date, tonic water, sparkling water and soda are still there but probably the impact of the crisis will be seen between September and October – explains the award-winning bartender Massimo D’Addezio, co-founder of Ro.Ck. Rooms & Cocktails, a consulting company for the beverage world – creativity can make up for their lack up to a certain point. How can you replace carbon dioxide in the preparation of a Gin Fizz? You cannot use still water, it would totally change the effect, the drink would be watered down. Not only. Carbon dioxide has an organoleptic effect, affects the palate, the taste part. And the Aperol Spritz? It could save itself from serious repercussions, but because by now most of the barmen prepare it only with Aperol and prosecco, without the splash of soda ». The same opinion for Matteo Zed, internationally renowned bartender and bar director of the Roman The Court: “The gas crisis is not yet so evident in the drinks sector, but it will come, alternative solutions, such as carbon dioxide capsules, are there, however, refills may be missing ». The alternative for the sector and, especially at the counter, could be in fermentation. «There will be more space for Kombucha cocktails with natural fermentation – continues Zed – Make way for the Tepache, a Mexican recipe based on pineapple». Among the cocktails that risk falling off the Charter or in any case of seeing prices rise significantly, there are also many of those currently most popular.
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«There could be a Gin Tonic crisis – comments D’Addezio – and that would be a big problem, given the amount of requests. When soda and tonic water are in short supply, probably in the fall, we will notice. All that remains is to wait for better times, perhaps taking the opportunity to make a broader reflection on the entire sector. It must be said that, probably, it will still be possible to have carbon dioxide, perhaps from other countries than the usual ones up to now. However, it will probably have higher prices. We will have to see what happens in the next few weeks ». Zed reassures: «The solution will be found. Everything is reinvented, today we no longer live on classic recipes, established at the table. For a while, people will have to do without the classics, which will have to be rethought. Maybe instead of Gin Tonic there will be Gin and Kombucha ».
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